How to Preserve and Frame a Signed Football Jersey

Use a shadow box with UV-protective acrylic or museum glass, an acid-free backing, and reversible stitching through seams (no glue or tape). Keep fabric off the glazing with spacers, add a dust seal, and hang away from heat, moisture, and direct sun.

What You’ll Need

• Shadow box or deep frame (internal depth 2–3 in / 5–7.5 cm or more)

• UV-protective acrylic (lightweight, shatter-safe) or museum glass (anti-reflective)

• Acid-free, lignin-free backing board (mount board or foam board)

• Archival sewing kit: polyester or cotton thread, fine needles, thimble

• Acid-free tissue paper for shaping the jersey

• Frame spacers or a built-in float to keep fabric off the glazing

• Soft brush, lint-free cloth, clean nitrile gloves

• Dust cover paper, framer’s tape for the frame (not on the jersey), D-rings + wall anchors

• Optional: silica gel packets (to buffer humidity), nameplate, photo windows

Step 1: Choose the Right Frame & Glazing

• Shadow box depth: A deeper frame prevents crushing crests, badges, or signatures.

• Glazing:

  • UV acrylic blocks fading, is safer and lighter for large frames.

  • Museum glass is crystal-clear and low-glare but heavier.

• Spacers: Ensure there’s at least a few millimetres of air gap so the signature and prints never touch the glazing.

Step 2: Prepare the Jersey (Preservation First)

• Do not wash a signed jersey; moisture can feather inks.

• Handle with clean gloves.

• If wrinkled, lightly steam from the inside through tissue paper, keeping steam away from the autograph. Avoid irons on printed areas.

• Add acid-free tissue inside the body and sleeves to give gentle shape and prevent sagging.

Step 3: Plan the Layout

• Decide on arms out, folded sleeves, or V-fold to show name/number and signature.

• Lightly mark your centres on the backing board; keep margins even (top ≈ bottom, left ≈ right).

Step 4: Archival, Reversible Mounting (No Glue)

• Never use hot glue, spray adhesive, double-sided tape, or ordinary pins—these stain, fail, or leave holes.

• Use minimal stitching through seams and inconspicuous areas (inside shoulders, collar seam, underarm seam). Take tiny tacking stitches that can be removed later.

• Support heavier crests by discreet stitches around their edges (through backing cloth, not the crest itself).

• Where needed, add a hidden fabric sling (a strip of neutral fabric behind the shoulders) to carry weight without pulling on the jersey.

Step 5: Assemble the Frame

1. Clean the glazing with a microfibre cloth; avoid harsh cleaners.

2. Place the spacer/float, then the mounted jersey on acid-free backing.

3. Fit the frame, ensuring the jersey does not touch the glazing.

4. Add silica gel (optional) in a small pouch in the frame cavity.

5. Seal the back with dust cover paper to keep out insects and dust.

6. Install D-rings and hang with appropriate wall anchors.

Step 6: Placement & Environment

• Hang out of direct sunlight and away from radiators, fireplaces, or damp walls.

• Ideal conditions: 18–21°C (65–70°F), 45–55% relative humidity.

• For very valuable autographs, rotate displays (e.g., 6 months on wall, 6 months in storage) to reduce total light exposure.

Extra Preservation Tips

• Keep any certificate of authenticity (COA) in an archival sleeve on the frame back (not touching the jersey).

• Use anti-static acrylic if static is an issue with delicate fibres.

• If you add photos or a nameplate, mount them on separate windows so they don’t press on the fabric.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Taping or gluing the jersey to the board

• Letting fabric touch the glass/acrylic

• Using non-UV glazing in bright rooms

• Ironing over prints or the autograph

• Hanging in direct sun, high heat, or high humidity

• Using cardboard/backing that is not acid-free

FAQ

Glass or acrylic—which is better for a jersey frame?
Acrylic is lighter and safer for large frames and offers excellent UV protection; museum glass provides top clarity and low glare. Either works if it’s UV-filtering and the jersey doesn’t touch it.

Can I use pins or double-sided tape?
No. Pins leave holes; tapes and glues yellow, fail, and can bleed into fabric. Use reversible stitching through seams instead.

How do I keep the autograph from fading?
Use UV-protective glazing, avoid direct sunlight, maintain stable temperature/humidity, and keep the fabric off the glazing to prevent transfer or sticking.